Ears, Claws and Teeth in Sphynx Cats

Ears

Sphynx ears can accumulate a surprising amount of dark, waxy debris. It is also much more visible than it would be in a coated cat.

There is no need to make perfectly clean ears the goal. Some cats need their ears cleaned fairly regularly, others much less often, so it makes more sense to check them and clean when needed than to follow a fixed weekly schedule.

Use an ear cleaner intended for cats and follow the instructions on the product. A cotton pad can be used for the parts of the ear that are easy to reach, but cotton buds should never be pushed down into the ear canal.

Dark brown wax can be completely normal in a Sphynx, but it should not automatically be assumed to be normal just because of the colour. A sudden increase in discharge, unpleasant smell, redness, head shaking or persistent scratching needs checking. Ear mites and bacterial or yeast infections can also produce dark debris and need veterinary treatment.

Claws and toes

Brown, waxy material also tends to collect around the nail beds and between the toes in Sphynx cats. It becomes particularly obvious when the claw is extended and can simply be cleaned gently as part of normal grooming.

How often this needs doing depends on the cat.

Claws should be checked regularly and trimmed when necessary. For many indoor cats this may be around every couple of weeks, but activity and scratching habits make a difference, so there is no particular benefit in trimming claws that do not need it.

Only the transparent tip should be removed, avoiding the pink quick inside the claw. Anyone unsure how to do this should ask a vet, veterinary nurse or groomer to demonstrate it first.

Teeth

Dental care matters in Sphynx just as it does in other cats. Periodontal disease is common in cats generally, but there is currently not enough evidence to claim the same clear Sphynx-specific predisposition that has been demonstrated for conditions such as HCM, corneal sequestrum or entropion.

The most effective form of plaque control at home is tooth brushing.

Daily brushing is ideal, although several times a week is still useful if daily brushing is unrealistic. It is much easier to introduce this gradually when a cat is young, before there is actually a dental problem to deal with.

Use a small soft toothbrush and toothpaste made for pets. Human toothpaste should not be used.

Dental diets, treats and other products can provide additional help, but the word “dental” on the packaging does not necessarily mean that a product has been shown to work. Products supported by evidence, such as those accepted by the Veterinary Oral Health Council, are a better place to start.

Raw chicken necks or other raw bones are not something that should be recommended as routine dental care. Apart from limited evidence for their use as dental treatment, bones can fracture teeth and raw animal products can carry pathogenic bacteria.

It is also worth getting into the habit of looking at the mouth rather than waiting until a cat stops eating.

Red or bleeding gums, persistent bad breath, visible tartar, drooling, pawing at the mouth or a change in how the cat eats all deserve attention. Cats can continue eating despite considerable dental pain, so a normal appetite does not necessarily mean that the mouth is healthy.

The teeth and gums should be examined during routine veterinary health checks. Some cats will eventually need a professional dental procedure under general anaesthesia, with dental X-rays where indicated. How often depends on the individual cat and what is actually found during examination rather than following a fixed cleaning schedule.